Natural wine is wine made with as little intervention as possible: grapes farmed without chemicals, wild yeasts, nothing added in the cellar and little or no sulphites. In Lisbon, the easiest way to try Portuguese natural wine is in a wine shop or wine bar that works directly with small producers, like POP in Graça. Ask to taste before you buy; natural wines vary more from bottle to bottle than conventional ones.
Natural, organic, biodynamic: what is the difference?
- Organic is about the vineyard: no synthetic pesticides or fertilisers. It is certified and you will see the EU leaf logo on the label.
- Biodynamic goes further in the vineyard, following a calendar and natural preparations. Also certified, by private bodies.
- Natural is about the cellar as well: spontaneous fermentation with the yeasts already on the grapes, no additives, no heavy filtering, and very low or no added sulphites. There is no official certification, so it depends on trusting the producer.
In short: most natural wines are organic, but most organic wines are not natural.
What does natural wine taste like?
More alive, less polished. Whites can be a little cloudy, reds often lighter and juicier than you expect, and some bottles have a slight fizz. Skin-contact whites, often called orange wines, have tannins and notes of tea, apricot and dried herbs. When it is well made, natural wine is simply very drinkable. When it is not, you get sour or cider-like notes, which is why tasting before buying helps.
Why Portugal is a good country for natural wine
Portugal still has many small family estates, old vines and more than 250 native grapes, which suits low-intervention winemaking very well. Young producers in Vinho Verde, Bairrada, the Dão, the Lisbon region and the Alentejo now bottle wines with no additions.
The Alentejo also has something few countries can offer: vinho de talha, wine fermented in large clay amphorae, a tradition that goes back to Roman times and never stopped in some villages. If you like natural wine, it is the Portuguese bottle to take home. Read more about each region in our guide to Portuguese wine regions.
How to choose a natural wine in Lisbon
- Ask where it comes from. A good seller knows the producer and the vineyard, not just the grape.
- Start with a light red or a skin-contact white. They show the style best.
- Chill the reds a little. Many natural reds are better at 14 to 16°C.
- Drink it within a few days of opening and keep it in the fridge, since there is little sulphite to protect it.
Where to taste natural wine in Lisbon
At POP, on Rua da Senhora do Monte in Graça, a good part of our 250 Portuguese wines comes from organic and natural producers we know personally. You can taste some of them in our guided wine tasting (five wines, about an hour, €35), then take your favourite bottle home at shop price with 5% off on the day. Tell us when you book that you are curious about natural wine and we will lean the tasting that way.
The Miradouro da Senhora do Monte is 30 metres from the door. A natural white, a sunset over the castle: hard to find a better first evening in Lisbon. To keep exploring, here are more wine bars in Lisbon. For a full day in the vineyards instead, see wine tour from Lisbon or tasting in the city.
Questions we get asked
What is natural wine?
Wine made from organically farmed grapes, fermented with wild yeasts, with no additives and little or no added sulphites.
Is natural wine the same as organic wine?
No. Organic refers to how the grapes are grown and is certified. Natural wine also limits what happens in the cellar and has no official label.
What is vinho de talha?
A traditional Alentejo wine fermented and aged in large clay amphorae, called talhas.
Where can I try natural wine in Lisbon?
At POP, a Portuguese wine shop in Graça, you can taste natural and organic wines from small producers during a guided tasting, from €35.